Arrow down:  Note to Valerie Harris-check out chapter 23
Email address of: russellcozy-at-att.net
Chapter 21 Strakes & Landing lights (four)
Landing Lights followed by  Gravity fed "Header" tank, aka "feeder" tank. The header tank arrangement is very important for using stock wet fuel pumps to feed the stock fuel injectors and have the stock return from the Mazda injector assembly. Sorry about the run the "stock" word. But there is safety in using the proven arrangement where you can. 
See section 21-40 for fuel sight gauges
EDIT NOTE 08-22-2011: The transition strips at the aft of the strakes are great, but I am going to trim the transition strips on the outboard edges where they overlap the wings to not overlap, but span the gap and leave about a 1/16th of an inch gap. I painted the wings seperately from the strakes and so the wing surface in the overlap area is painted and all is well. The reason for the change is that wing torque will place stress on the overlap extensions on strakes and this stress on the strakes is not a good thing. Hindsight shows that you can do a slight overlap, but use a marking paste like mustard to show how much to trim. See 21-11 and 21-16 for this overlap.

The bottom of the canard is 1.4 inches above the LE of the strakes and the glide path is 3 degrees. I may be wrong, but the current alignment on my lights seems to will work. Now Marc Z. wrote about taking a 6 degree glide path and using the landing brake and rudders and a slip to slow before the flare and I cannot say how this will effect the light alignment. I prefer a little higher approach, but I will be landing at a 5000 foot runway some. But, I only know what I have read from other pilots. I fly a Diamod DA-20 and the two lights are not sufficient for taxi work at night.
Pic#1: Lights are adjusted (and probably be readjusted a couple of times). The cover will be installed after I get the plane to the airport. 
Pic#2: The canard is draped with a sheet to show the light pattern. Outboard left light is aimed just below the canard tip. Inboard left light is aimed further left for left exits from the main. The right side is similar, but the outboard right light is aimed "six inches" (as for the pattern on the drape) further below the left pattern to give two angles of light on final. The lights and cover information is covered below at section 21-33.
Fuel Management with a Header Tank

Forget about the name "header", this fuel tank lets you:

-forget about ever having to switch tanks again

-forget about worrying that the fuel guy pumped all of the twenty five gallons that you ordered (before you went into the FBO to use the bathroom) into only your left fuel tank

- allow  Here is my .02 on this important aspect of the building and flying of the Cozy.
Colby Farmer has a header tank and self balancing fuel tanks and he has many years of flying with this combination.
My fuel selector says "On" and "Off" and that is all. I have linked the two tanks together and routed that flow through the selector valve and on to the header tank. Both tanks are also cross linked with the venting at the top of the fire wall. Also the return from the fuel injection ignition system runs back to the header tank and so balance is maintained.
I have lighted fuel sight gages as backups. This setup is not a one point fueling system. I add fuel to each tank to start out balanced. The left tank fuel probe sends the signal to the Dynon system and the right fuel probe sends the signal to an analog fuel gage on the IP. When my Dynon system fails, then I can still fly with good fuel management. Both fuel probe readings should always match each other and can be verified by looking at the sight gages. My last 2.00 gallons of usable fuel will always be the 2.00 gallons of the 2.25 gallons in the header tank.
"Header Fuel tank" and dual "wet" fuel pumps ( for fuel injection)
I cover this at the start of this chapter, because it is important to me. The fuel selector valve issue of where it is located and the left/right/both issue has troubled me. The use of the gravity fed header tank and the dual wet pumps solves all the issues for me. The header tank has an AN-6 input that is 6-7 inches below the bottom of the main tanks and so there is no "sucking air". The main tank are self balancing by a cross connection at the "on/off" valve. 

Note for Lycoming builders: This setup is excellent for use with a mechanical fuel pump. After I took off the Rotary engine and installed the HIO-360, I converted my header tank to a standard setup. One of the fuel pump assemblies is the pickup for the mechanical fuel pump on the engine (with the filter sleeve on the pickup) and ther other wet fuel pump is used as an electrical boost pump. I have a purge system on my Airflow Tech. mechanical fuel injection system and the boost pump makes use of that option with the fuel used to purge hot fuel being returned to the header tank. 

Thanks to Al Wick for his information on this. The setup that I did departs from his on tank material and shape, but the basics of using the two "wet" pumps is retained. I ordered the Walbro Gss 342 255-LPH high pressure fuel pump from walbropumps.com.  I got the one listed for 97-2001 Honda Prelude. I ended up using the stock 1997 Honda Prelude fuel pump hanger assemblies. Al used the Airtex hanger assembly. They are priced at a cost of $400-450. The stock Honda assemblies have a better design. The electrical line is shielded where it contacts the vibrating parts of the pump and the return from the EFI is directed at the pump exterior to add cooling to the pump. I bought two new gaskets from Autozone (SKU#20770642) for $25 and got the factory assemblies from a salvage yard for $50 for one and $100 for the other and then installed the new Walbro fuel pumps on them (easily). I will add that Al said that he replaced his Airtex pumps with the Walbro pumps. I have no experience with either pump, but I trust Al on his use of the pumps in a similar header tank. I hate to place any used parts on my plane, but these parts are in excellent condition with all "worn" parts being replaced.

Please note:
The addition of a header tank is not hard, but the addition of the two fuel pumps in the space available is more challenging. Because it is so exacting, I have added a lot of detail.
The tank is 2.4 gallons in size, with about 2.25 gallons of that being usable fuel. The return from the fuel injection goes back to the header tank and that helps keep fuel balance. This header tank is gravity fed to an entry point that is near the bottom of the tank and all of the lines that run to the tank are below main fuel tank level. The total capacity of the tank is below the level of the main tanks. The header tank is vented. The tank is not attached to the fire wall but is secured to the LG bulkhead with some BID strips, and they are weaker than the tank wall and so they would shear before forcing tank rupture, in the event of a LG failure. Last of all, I placed a removable barrier panel from the LG bulkhead to the CS to add some more protection against fuel entering the rear seat area. 
With this setup, I referred to self balancing on the main tanks. It only involves placing a "Tee" connection, joining left and right tanks, at the bottom port of the plans Weatherhead valve. I plugged the left and right ports. The simple choices then are "pointing up is off" and "pointing down is on". The EFI return is to the header tank and so you don't shift fuel. You may split the EFI return to the two tanks, but a pressurized flow will still have an uneven flow with "plumbing geometry asymmetry" (you get the idea).

Pic#1: I took the old gasket off and disassembled the old pump from the hanger. The old gasket had a round crease from a pressure point. Later, I made a lip to apply a similar seal on the gasket (see 21-1E). The Walbro and the old factory pump have the same plug and so it was just unplug and plug back in. It is a little tricky to remove the friction ring at the base of the old pump to get the rubber base off. The ring goes around a 1.5 mm. diameter plastic peg to prevent the bag from rotating. The new Walbro pump comes with a new friction ring, but it is so small, that you might miss it. I used both the factory ring and the new one on the peg. I used the rubber end cap at the base.
This is after install of the Walbro pump. The exterior of the assembly has the power connectors and two tubes. One is output and one is return (form the fuel injection). Take a sharpie and mark arrows now, while you can see which is which. The exterior framework is 5 inches across and the "footprint" length when tilted is 13.5 inches long.
The header tank was made in two halves. The top half has a separate front panel that has the  hard points for the assembly to bolt to. There is a vent on the upper area of the top half. The bottom half has the input AN fitting input. Into that input I placed a AN842-6D (AN to hose) fitting and attached a piece of low pressure fuel line (3/8th) to that and ran the fuel line through a hole in the LG bulkhead (just above the LG strut) and ending with AN807-6D (hose to AN/compression) to connect to the alum. tubing that runs to the Weatherhead valve. Draining and flushing of the tank is possible. The fuel would have to be evacuated from the tank by fuel exhaustion or if that is not possible then by a more complicated syphoning through the return line on the auxiliary pump and then removing one of the fuel pumps and finishing the removal of the fuel and any unwanted particles, ect. There is not enough room for a separate drain at the bottom of the tank. The flushing aspect is very important since the tank is not removable. To make the floxing work, the top half must exactly match the bottom half in dimensions and the front face must be floxed on after completing the flox/BID union of the top and bottom halves while in place. I assembled  the bottom and top halves by drilling small holes and inserting small finishing nails. This allowed me to trial fit the tank behind the LG bulkhead. and trial fit in the plane and then bond it (E-Z epoxy flox/BID strips followed by E-Z epoxy "slurry consistency" flox coating of the interior. The hard points on the front panel allow some "tweaking" of fuel pump angle before the final glassing of the three front panel pieces and there floxing into place on the front of the tank. 
Pic#2-4: Since each plane is unique in exact spacing of the FW and LG bulkhead, I really reccommend the cardboard mockup. The trick of this setup is to cut the pieces for the top half to the same size as the bottom half. There must be some spacing for glassing of the exterior and so this mockup should easily slide into place. I went back and forth to the interior of the plane, confirming the fit, there.
Note: I made the mockup at 16 inches wide and decreased the size to 15 inches. The 15 inches is just enough width for the two fuel pumps to mount. You can do a 16 inch width and so add 1 inch to all the marked widths. Any wider size will limit access to the aft nut on the LG bolts and engine mount bolts.
Pic#5: (click for larger size) The top piece that shows 14.5 inches wide and is made twice as it is the same size as the forward wall of the bottom of the tank. The bottom 15 inch piece is the forward top base of the lower half of the tank (see pic#4). The narrow third from the bottom piece is a 1/2 inch wide (14.5 inches long) tilted lip that is added near the forward edge of the upper base (see pic#4) and a second one is make and added at the top front edge (see pic #1 of section 21-1D). The side of the tank (left side of pic) shows the pink rectangle and yellow outline. This is a 1.5 inch by 3.0 inch piece of 1/4th inch thick 2024 alum. insert with a 1/2 inch hardpoint strips floxed around it. This insert will have 1/8th inch drilled holes on the edges for flox tags. The AN tap will stress this insert more than the fuel drain valves and so there will be an additional two BID layup around this area on the interior and exterior. The tap for the AN-6 hole is threaded with a Kobalt 1/4 in./po.-18NPI tap and with a pre drilled hole made by a 1/2 inch drill bit. See the 21-10 section on making the fuel drain for the main tanks.
NOTE: The other opening shown for a 1/8th NPI fitting is not going to be placed due to space limitation in that area.
Pic #6:  On the right of the pic there is a side piece shown. The long edge is 8.25 inches long and it is 3.00 inches tall and the level top edge is 3.25 inches and the short tilted top side is 3 inches and it has a 1.25 X 1.25 inch 2024 alum. insert (1/4th inch thick) for the vent line (1/8th NPI tap). The overlap of the pieces is shown on the black outlined side piece.
The yellow "squares" are 5.50 inches by 5.75 inches in size and they are hardpoint material that I had left over from the FHC work (chapter 18) .
**These hardpoint squares have a lot of detail. I floxed on the 5/16th nuts on the back side and added a coating of slurry E Z Poxy over the rest of the interior side and added the flox lip around the ring opening on the forward side. In section 21-1E, I trial fitted the fuel pumps on these and marked that position on some 3/4th inch thick foam and inset them into the front face. I taped over the bolt holes and covered with some slurry flox and a 2 BID layup. The front panel is larger in size to increase the footprint of the front panel and provide enough room for the placement of the two fuel pumps (see 21-1-E).**
The circles marked fuel pump are the assembly mounting bases (I guess you can call them by that name). 
Note: the 3/4" thick foam front panel is not on the drawing. I made to fit the need for the final alignment of the fuel pumps into the tank, after the tank was made and had the final glass work.

All of the MGS glassed foam will be covered with two coats of E-Z Poxy for fuel exposure. This includes the hardpoint materials. I could have started with E-Z Poxy for the one side of the foam, but I like the working properties of the MGS better.

Pic#1: The hard points for the front panel are marked for the fuel pump assembly. The foam pieces are made from H100 PVC 1/4th inch thick foam. 
Pic#4&5: These pics show the assembled halves. I drilled some 5/64th holes and inserted small finishing nails. The only pieces that had 5 minute epoxy where the top base and the forward wall of the bottom section. Pic#5 shows the extra trimming of this 90 degree turn of the foam where the assemblies are close to that point. The assembly frames must not contact the glass at those point, due to vibration induced wear problems. The front panel is glassed together later to allow an exact alignment of the assemblies into the tank. The hardpoints later are moved forward about 0.5 inches within a 3/4th inch foam piece. All nails are inserted from the exterior and are removed before the exterior is glassed.
Pic#3: This shows how the interior is acessed for the joining of the two tank halves after placement in the plane. 

Pic#1: One more trial fit, before glassing. I sanded some of the foam off to make a loose fit prior to glassing. A loosed fit is 1/4 inch "jiggle" forward and aft. I had to trim off at the top forward edge on the exterior foam and I thinned the thickness of the top level base piece (that let the tank sit a little lower and not touch the CS at the front forward edge). Trim more than you need to, so that you won't have a "post glassing" size problem. 
Pic#2: This is a trial fit of the pumps and hardpoints. The main fuel pump is mounted on the right side of the plane and "stacked" above the auxiliary fuel pump (see 21-1-E), so there is a little more fuel for the auxiliary pump. It is at this point, that I marked the holes for drilling out for the 5/16th" bolts, and I made "tick" marks for up and marked for aux. and main on the hardpoints. The two fuel pumps are mounted 180 degrees different and the main fuel pump has the ideal alignment for the return line. The hardpoint for the main fuel point has the inboard edge tipped and has a 1/4th inch gap, but that is fixed with the final front panel.
Pic#3: The little details, like how to secure the nuts for the 5/16th bolts is an important detail. I drilled out one inch diameter hardpoints and trimmed the centers for the nuts to slip into. The hardpoint "rings" act as forms, reinforcements, and seal the bolt openings. Later, I will show the flox "ring seal" for pressure on the gasket. Be sure to add a little ortho wax or silicone to the junction of the nut to the bolt to keep out the flox. I underestimated the creep on the flox and had to replace four of the twelve nut "bases". The rest looked great on the first try. The rest of the inner side of the hardpoint plate is covered with slurry E Z Poxy flox to fuel proof the surface.

This is the next to the last hurtle to get over.
Pic#1: The flox rim has been placed and sanded it flat. It is only 1/8th inch high. I just want a little more pressure on that part of the gasket, than the rim.
Pic#2: The 3/4th" thick foam had a dingy color on the exterior. I trial fitted both fuel pumps in the tank and marked the foam for the two hardpoint positions. I had to raise the hardpoints 1/4th and move them forward 1/2 inch to have the best alignment. So, I trimmed out a 1/4" recess in the front panel and retested the position in the tanks, before glassing the front panel. The "star" look is to allow for the flox buildups on the nuts.
Pic#3: You can see the raising of the hardpoints. I trial fitted this in the plane and the CS is not a problem for this position.
Pic#4-6: Before the 2 ply BID layup was done, I covered the forward bolt holes with small squares of duct tap and filled the aft sides of the nuts with ortho wax. I placed thicker micro on the foam where the hardpoint is recessed and a flox slurry on the forward surface of the hardpoints and wrapped a single layup (H-4) from the back to front. I had wet out the layup on plastic and pressed the aft side of the foam onto the layup and then cut the plastic and pulled the plastic and layup over the front. After pressing it in place, I peeled back the plastic and worked out the air bubbles and covered the front with masking tape and then plastic again and placed a board and weights on the front surface to evenly seat the hardpoints. The sides and bottom of the foam will have a flox edge added at the time of the final glassing to the tank. The top edge is rounded for this layup.
In pic#5, you see where I used my dremel and trimmed out the glass on the aft side. After I trimmed this out, I scooped out some of the wax from the 5/16th" nuts and drilled a small hole in their centers to show the opening on the forward side of the panel. I used the dremel sanding disk and opened those holes. Each bolt hole was tested for ease of bolt placement. I had to trim out some flox that had run onto the opening for the assembly. It is a close fit and so a little flox can make the assembly base get off center and then a couple of the mounting bolts will bind. If you can't hand screw the bolts to start them, then trim some more around the entry hole (after marking the bind spot). 

Pic#1: With the addition of the header tank, I simplified the fuel selector valve. I placed a tee (AS AN 825 6D) with a fitting to screw into the bottom port of the fuel selector valve. The left and right ports are capped and the rear ouput port runs to the header tank. This makes the left and right tank connected. On banks there will be minimal fuel shifting. With low fuel situations, the 2.5 gallon header tank averts any air cavitation. That is the case whether you have the traditional fuel pump combination aft of the FW or the wet pumps in the header tank.
PLEASE NOTE: If this setup has any shortcomings, then i will just replumb the lines behind the seatback. I will test this all out on the ground before the trials.

Pic#2: Layup pieces for the final install. I decided to do all of the layups (interior and exterior) at one time. This is only possible with the use of thicker flox buttered onto the layup pieces. That way I could put the interior pieces on and not have to worry about them staying in place. I want to have the exterior skin as my backup against leaks.
Before you start the layups, tape plastic wherever you even think that flox may come in contact with anything in the FW/LG bulkhead/CS area. I placed some small wood blocks under the tank to support it since there is about a 3/4th inch gap there. I taped over the exterior of the bolt holes with duct tape, but I would add an outline of duct tape for the assembly footprint, because you need to trim off the overlap of BID and flox at that point to re-establish an even flat front surface for seal of the gasket. In pics 3 & 4, I added some scraps of BID strips in two area. In pic3#, I added a lip on the aft edge (with flox) to catch the flox. In pic#4, I added the BID on the interior to protect the aft side of the nuts from flox. In pic#4 you can just barely see that the lower edge has been prepared for a flox inset. I did the same for the sides and rounded the bottom outer edges. Last of the prep work is to tape over the vent opening with a square of duct tape and make a plastic template to lay on the side piece and find the spot later for the dremel disk.
Layup placement:
1. Tape the four inch wide layup onto the top front edge of the top half of the tank, with the plastic backing on, and overlapping onto the top surface of the tank by one inch. Do this at the table and wait to add flox.
2. Butter the rest of the layups with thicker flox (not dry).
3. Lay a 10 inch piece of 2" wide masking tape face up and take the 15" X4" layup (for bottom front edge) onto the tape at the edge.
4. Move these onto some plastic on top of the strake to allow easy access or have a second person pass these pieces inside the fuselage.
5. With the low pressure fuel line installed on the AN-842-6D fitting, place the bottom half of the tank in position aft of the LG bulkhead. 
6. Take off the plastic and place the 4" long BID strip under the left and right bottom edge of the top base on the bottom half of the tank and then overlap the and tape the 15' piece on the underside of the front edge of that same base (plastic still on the exterior side).
7. Add a thin layer of flox along the top side rims of the bottom half and a thick layer at the aft lip of the bottom half. Just don't overload flow near the intake AN entry port.
8. Thin coat the rims of the top half of the tank with flox and slip the top half into place to the bottom half.
9. Use some masking tape and hold up the 4" x 15" BID layup that is drooping down over the top front edge.
10. Place the 14" buttered BID strip on the aft junction of the two tanks and peel off the plastic. You need a spot light shinning is to check this, but the placement is mostly by feel.
11. Add the 7.5" side floxed pieces and use a slightly wet brush to press the interior strips and remove any air.
12. If it is not hot weather, wait a couple of minutes and check to see that the interior layups are not drooping.
13. Flox the lower and outer edges of the front panel. I had to support the front edge about 1/4th inch above the LG bulkhead, so I placed that support in place under the plastic and then I added flox along the bottom front edge of the tank. Flox has to be added at the top, but it must to be allowed to drop down so I pushed the top 15"X4" layup back about 1/4th inch and placed some flox there.
14. I buttered the top aft edge of the front panel and then placed the front panel on. I gently pulled the bottom 15" layup over the bottom edge of the front panel and peeled back the plastic.
15. I lowered the top 15"X4" layup down and used a 24" "yardstick" sized wood piece to press the layup against the back edge of the front panel and wrap the layup over the top and onto the front edge. See Pic#3 of 21-1-E for this wrap around problem. 
16. I added the outside back side pieces (4"long).
17. I added some flox to the top and bottom corners of the front panel.
18. I gently pulled up the bottom side BID strips (4" long) that were placed early on.
19 Last of all I added the floxed quadrilateral sides, left and right and worked the corner together for the different layups.
20. I placed masking tape across the front to sides to peel ply and hold the front panel in place for floxing.
Note: The intake line will vent off any pressure from the tank.

Pic#3: I floxed around the AN-842-6D fitting to add strength. I installed the fuel line on this PRIOR to assembly of the tank in the fuselage. If you line up the hole through the LG bulkhead to this fitting, then you can manage that. When the hose has to be replaced, then it's going to be much harder to install the new hose. Getting the old hose off is not hard, but pushing on the new one in that confined space will be hard and the AN fitting has to allow for the aft pressure for pushing on the new hose. I may have to drop the LG and push the hose from the LG bulkhead recess. I don't know how long this hose will last. I checked on this, but is not an item that I want to fail, and so I may replace the fuel line after 5-7 years. All fuel lines have sleeves where they contact a surface in the routing.
Pic#4: 2 ply BID strip is floxed to the lip to hold in the flox at assembly. 
Pic#3 & 6 show the before and after on the placement of the fuel line (3/8th") and clamp. The round object through the FW is a sleeve to protect the radiator hose from vibration (for cabin heater). This hose is ready to route parallel to the fuel line.
Pic#7: The final product minus the high pressure fuel lines and the vent lines and minus the securing of the tank to the LG bulkhead with a couple of BID strips.
The leak test was a success.
Supply list:
2024 1/4th thick aluminum (1.5" X 3.0", and 1.25" X1.25')
Kobalt 1/4 in./po.-18NPI Tap (for AN-6 hole in the alum. insert at the bottom of the tank)
AN-842-6D  (90 degree AN fitting to hose)
AN-807-6D  (hose to AN compression fitting)
low pressure fuel line- 3/8th" X 2' 
1/8th NPI elbows ending in compression fittings for 1/4th inch aluminum tubing (one for vent)
H-100 PVC 1/4th thick foam 15" x 39.4"
E-Z epoxy
1997-2001 Honda Prelude fuel pump assemblies (two)
Bosch gaskets (two) (Autozone SKU # 20770642)
Walbro Gss 342 255-LPH (made to match Honda Prelude 97-2001)
5/16th" X 1" Grade 8 steel/zinc plated hex bolts (Crown Bolt-Home Depot) (Quantity-12) (the length will be shortened before the final install of the front panel)
5/16th' nuts matching the above (these are floxed into small hardpoints pieces on the aft side of the mounting hardpoint panels on the front of the tank)
Misc to be added here

Layup list:
H-1  2 ply BID with MGS epoxy (E-Z Poxy for rest othe layups)
H-2  2 ply BID strips (E-Z Poxy) on interior of tank at corners
The layups that join the top half to bottom half to the front panel are described in 21-1-F
H-3  2 ply Bid over exterior of tank (E-Z) and 2 ply BID strips
H-4  2 Ply BID over front and back of front panel
H-5  2 Ply BID strips on interior on tank halves and exterior to fuse together
H-6  2 Ply BID strips on sides of front panel to seal to the tank

Please note: I lost most of the pics of the internal support work and here is what I have. Please see other sites for those type pics. I do show the pieces for the extensions of the strakes that allow for carrying golf clubs. I did not change the LE angle from the plans and so I keep the fuel CG as per plans.
(Double click images for larger size)

Strake pieces are marked on the foam. You cannot overdo the labeling. The yellow foam pieces at the far end of the table are top and bottom "rib support" pieces that are lined up parallel to R-57 and R-33. These rig supports run from TLE to DB.

This is the layup for cap strips for the top skin placement, I saved the extra to make the transition pieces for the gaps between the wings and strakes and with the landing light lens support.

I made a cardboard template and cut out this "wing guide". I floxed a cap strip onto this overlapping the wing.

I have the plans strakes up to within seven inches of the fuselage. The extensions go to within six inches of the IP, before they begin to taper. As I referred ot above, I have keep the CG for the fuel tanks as per plans.

At the transition point I placed a "D" shaped support. This support allows for the skins to be "ripped" on the inner side (like I did for the armrest in chapter 24) and allow the skin to be screwed down until the flox set and then the screws are removed. Later, I removed the cross piece on these supports and made the "D" into a "C" shape to allow for long objects like golf drivers to be stored there. I added a 205 inch wide support, flat, on the inner side of the lower skin from R-33 to the fuselage for support where TLE would have run. The second picture shows the full cutout and the fresh air duct and outlet. There will be pictures later showing the install of that.

This is before trimming. Later, I extended the BLE-TLE to the "strake cap" piece.

I added recessed doublers on R-57 and the end cap piece that allowed me to place the skins to the end. I did put the UND reinforcement on both the top and bottom skins. Put a little flox on the CS where the UND strip goes. Place the UND on the underside of the top skin and leave the 3 inch piece dangling (you can place some short pieces of masking tape on the side of that to hold it). Press the UND strip onto the CS and lower the top skin onto the floxed doublers and weigh it down. This arrangement allowed for the install of the transition strips to cover the crack between the strake and wing and allowed me to uninstall the wing for the rest of the work.

Pic#1: This is the setup for both tanks to go to the fuel selector valves. To make the tanks self-balancing, you need to join the vent lines at the hight point at the firewall as shown in pic#2. (note: the orange peal finish on the paint is not my final coat).
Pic#2: With left and right being as for the plane, the top left vent line funs from the left strake. The bottom left line runs from the header tank. The bottom right line runs from the right strake and the top right line is the extension of the vent line to the bottom of the CS area.
DON'T DRILL THE THREE HOLES IN THE VENT LINE. I did this because Wayne Hicks did it and he did it because someone else did. Wayne posted a correction and his fix. My fix was less work. Not shown in pic#2 above is how that I had to "T" the two vent lines together aft of the firewall.
The small tubing is the vent with the three holes added to the nose down parking position of the plane, or so I thought. I have read Wayne Hick's and John Slades' comments on this and the bottom line is don't drill the three holes. The larger diameter tubing is the return for the fuel injection (one on left and right). I added the reinforcement piece on top of the CS so that I could stop the tubing there and add fittings, I will complete the firewall and then extend the tubings.
It is late August of 2010. Since I delayed adding the top fairing, I cut into the top skin over the 1" X 1" square of 1/4' thick alum. and exposed it. I used a dremel disk to cut on the sides and then used a flat screwdriver and rotated the piece out. I used the vacuum and dremel sanding disk and opened the hole in the bottom skin and left a lip around the edges. Next I made a 1" X 2" rectangular piece of 1/4" alum. after I had tapped and threaded two holes. One for the Princeton probe and one for a 1/4" x 1/8' elbow with insert to attach a second vent line for the parked position. I extended the opening in the top skin for the insert. I extended the opening in the bottom skin and placed a small piece of floxed BID over the three holes. I let that cure and checked it. Now, getting that little piece of BID and Safety epoxy flox in place is a little tricky. In the gallery above I will post a pic, but what you do is take some safety wire and stick into a urethane foam scrap and bed the wire to the shape that ends at the point of the three holes and lets the foam sit on top of the strake. The plastic is left on the little piece of fresh BID and you place a drop of five minute epoxy over the safety wire to the plastic to allow the plastic to be drawn out after cure. Butter the BID piece with flox and put it place for the cure to occur. The plastic pulled off with the wire on one and partially pulled on the other side, but it easily pull out with needle nosed pliers. Then I floxed in the alum. insert with the probe and elbow ALREADY INSTALLED. I allowed the flox to overlap the insert. You may then apply some BID along the edges. I removed foam 1/4 of an inch inside the top and bottom skin all around, before floxing. All of this fits under the top fairing. I made a template in plastic of where an access door could be made and stored it away. The top fairing looked too nice to cut into it at this time.
Here is a suggested solution for adding a replacement for a blocked vent. You may have to use a small piece of 2020 that is thicker than 1/4th inch thick, but this seems to work. I would drill 1/8 inch indentations on the borders of the piece to add more retention with the flox. You can make the lower tubing go forward to the plans position. I thought about how that you might want to prestiffen the tube at it's beginning by adding a flox sleeve that is connected to the brass elbow, since the tubing is unsupported at the forward end.

The first pic shows that I have the firm idea where the vent and fuel return are located. I will cover the construction of the aluminum piece and tapping and threading. I already covered the "fix" above. So, used a sharpie to give my outline on the 2024 1/4th inch thick aluminum. Within that outline, I did the following. Drill a 3/8th inch hole, and in this case I drilled two, but one inch apart. Then take the "Kobalt 1/8 NPT27" threader and using your socket wrench advance the threader and then reverse and test with the temporary plug (from ACE hardware). I reversed a 15/32 socket and used the 1/4 square side for the threader and the other side for the socket wrench. I'm sure that there is a special socket attachment for this, that you can buy. When the plug will screw to the opposite side of aluminum piece, THEN you are ready to cut out the piece. I did a test hole elsewhere on the block to get the skill. Keep the position of the squares marked as you go with glassing and the "micro big fill". Now, about the Princeton probes. You need to get the removable control line setup, so that you can drill a small hole in the turtleback in the fairing area and place the "box" on the forward side of the firewall. I cut off the probe to match my tank depth. You need to have the picture of the internal look of the tank when you place this to miss the screen and tubings. The Dynon folks don't support the Renesis engine with their monitor, so I used the Real World Solutions EM3 and ordered a dual tank Falcon gauge from AS to match these probes.


The black outline is where I will cut for access to place the landing light mounting.


This is the placement of the transition strips. Note: Go ahead and tape the leading edge of the wing and make a 3 ply BID strip for the LE of the strake cap section.


The left side was done before the top skin was finished. The doublers support the skin for placement.


This is the simpler way to do it.


You have noticed that I installed the aft part of the turtleback. I placed spacers and drilled alignment points and then cut the turtleback. This has worked out well. Placing the firewall reinforcements early on is good. You have better access for strake work on the baggage areas. As of 10-16-09 today, I have the fuselage turned over and I just completed the forward fresh air vents. Without the forward part of the canopy being there, I can glass the vent ducts in place with ease. The top becomes the bottom for glassing and you will always want to glass "down".


The wing is off now.


The cap strips on the aft side of the strakes are shown. This covers the gap between the strake and wing. I glassed over these strips when the exterior layups are done. What is that thing attached to the CS? That is a combination wing root transition piece and support for oil cooler and cooling coil (radiator). The holes allow for access for wing installation and for aileron control adjustments.


Parts for construction of the wing root "ribs".


Further along.


Top skin with layup.


Ready for bottom layup.

Note: I did the pressure test and I will refer you to Bernard Siu's website for a test setup that is better than what I did.
After the bottom layup, I placed a leading edge ridge of 1/4th inch thick by 1&7/8th inch hardwood. I cut triangle pieces and floxed them on, like the rear seat supports of chapter 24. I marked what I wanted to my dimensions of the fuel sump and then took blue tape to layout the shape of the fairing. Then is cut some blue foam pieces oversized.

Here is the blue foam after shaping. I did the left and right at the same time. The idea about the fuel sump is shown in the following pictures.

After using finishing nails to hold the pieces together I marked "tick" lines from the foam pieces to the sides of the fuselage and strake. I then cut out my sump foam core. The "tick" lines are needed all throughout the process.

I taped the strake and fuselage with masking tape and repositioned the foam and remarked the tick lines. I rounded the edges of the sump foam core and taped with masking tape and repositioned the foam on the fuselage and remarked that half of the tick lines and then glassed the sump.

Notice the tick lines. The glass picked up the lines off the masking tape. When I took off the tape from the strake and fuselage, these lined back up for the glassing of the sump to the fuselage/strake.

The sumps where trimmed and glassed on. Then I repositioned the other foam pieces and applied some micro in the strake/fuselage corner and let cure. Later, I stiffened the foam surface with a lightly applied coating of epoxy and let cure. That makes it easier to apply the micro and then the glass and work out the air.

I added drains on the sumps. I will add the pictures to the set above. I drilled some 1/8th inch holes on the sides of the inserts to have the flox hold the insert better. Of course, the drains are easier to do with the fuselage flipped and it's better to do this before the micro work has been done. I did a 4 ply BID layup for the "patch/insert" assembly with a 2 ply section placed on the backside to prevent displacement of the insert when the drain is used. I cut out the section on the sump, and almost missed the first one. I had added the fuselage and cowling lip and it made  the position fore/aft hard to figure. It worked out well, so this is only a good example of a retrofit of sumps drains.

I made templates and checked the airfoil shape and found that I had to add about 3/4 inch to the LE to get a good contour. I just floxed on some wood strips onto the LE. Some builders fill in the uneven spots at "the big fill" on top of the last glass layup. I have tried to even out under the last skin layup, as much as possible. You can use Featherlite foam cores for the LE. You need the BLE-TLE support. There will be over 200 pounds of fuel on each side and a hard landing will stress the LE of the strake. You can see that I have landing lights at the outboard LE of the strake (left and right). Landing lights are in the next section. I cut out blue foam and microed it to the wood LE support. I just placed the blue foam over the landing light area. I added the transition piece to blend to the wing, which will have to be changed after install of the wings for the LE there. In hindsight, I should have finished this part of the transition before I took the wing off. The 20/20 hindsight thing. Epoxy was gently painted on for stiffness. That works great. Less micro is needed and the shape is really smooth prior to glassing.

Here is the LE transition piece and the next picture shows where I trimmed the glass over the fuel drains and removed the portion of duct tape that was over the hole and took out the ortho wax. I tested the fit of the fuel drains and then covered the holes back over with just duct tape and marked the outline of the hole on the duct tape with a black sharpie. When you apply the "big fill" of micro for the final finish, you will want to taper down to the fuel drain point. The taper down is slight. Do not cover the sharpie marked area with micro.

Landing Lights
Having four lights, let's me set four different zones of focus. The bottom of the canard is 1.4 inches higher than the center point for the strake lights and the approach angle is 3 degrees so the following works out.
1. One light for long final to show my position (angled lower)
2. One light for short final approach for flair (angled a little higher)
3. One light angled left for exit to left
4. One light angled right for exit to right

It may explain the excessive details, below, to say that I am a dentist. The lens production combines lab techniques for making dentures and soft night guards. Having said that, this is a no frills way to make great light covers that have the LE shape. The canard does come into play on the lights, but there are four of them and so two them are going to be angled down for use during taxi time and the other two will have some effect from the canard, but between the four lights, I can spread the pattern out to accomplish a lot of different angles and modify the settings as I get more experience with the Cozy.

First, I made the holes for the landing lights in the TLE. The landing lights are 55 watt fog lights from Autozone and are "Navigator Driving Lights" number NV-5508. They are 1&7/7ths inches tall and 2&1/2 inches wide. I used a dremel disk and cut off the glass fog lens and then cut off ine "arm" of the mounting bracket to make the light fully removable from the front with the angled install position. The remaining arm with adjustment bolt does fine by itself. The second picture shows the support that is floxed to the OD support. I used cardboard to get this shape established and then transferred to this scrap piece of 3/8 piece of glassed foam. You have to cut out an access door on the strake endcap piece. The third picture shows my OD support without a cutout. The next two pictures have to do with lining up the angle of the bracket. I used a large sheetrock square with a straight board to shoot a line off the FW and extend the 90 degree forward over the bottom of the strake to the landing light area for the light alignment (parallel to the centerline of the fuselage).

You can see the lines marked. Because OD is not parallel to the TLE, the bracket will look askew. The next picture shows the lights installed. There are left and right sets. The outer light will be for landing and the inner will be separately switched for taxi illumination. After the LE layup was done, I taped over the area where the landing light lens cover was needed. I glassed with one ply BID and two plys UND(orientation fore-apt).

Double click the first picture for the to see the details. A lot is shown there. On the far right of that picture is the 3 ply template that was made. On the far left is the same template for the other strake with the tape on it for the first plaster pour. That first pour "cast" is shown on the second from the left with masking tape on it. I filled the glass template half full of plaster of paris and pushed the taped "cast" into that "yogart consisteny" plaster of Paris and then let it set, to get a reverse cast to fit over the first one. The center of the picture shows the regular cast covered over by the reverse cast. I added some stone (or plaster of Paris) on the outer side of that to make it stronger and keep it from rocking(when on the grill). The acrylic sheets are .08 Acrylic sheets (6X12 inch size). I got a 24X24 inch sheet and had the Lowe's guy cut it to make 8 pieces.

The next picture shows the cast being preheated to 350 degrees F. Between that picture and the next there was some work. I put on some oven mits and held a sheet of acrylic over the grill and rotated and flipped it while it warmed up. I did not set it on the grill. When the acrylic gets flexible, but not drooping, then I placed it on the top of the reverse cast and placed the cast down onto it. Notice that the cast are labeled for inboard with tick lines. I placed the weight and closed the grill top for thirty seconds. I took off the brick and flipped the cast over and smoothed down the drooping edges of the acrylic and took it out of the grill and placed on a safe surface to cool. When I could barely touch the excess acrylic with a bare hand, then I used my oven mits and took the cast apart. I took the not too hot acrylic lens and taped it onto the LE of the strake (keeping up with which end is outboard) and let it cool and conform. Mark the inboard side on the lens cover and left or right. Expect to go through 2 to 4 acrylic sheets to get the knack of it. I made spares for the lens covers and stored them away and I stored the cast away also. Years from now, I can still come back and remake lens as needed.

Several things happened between the last two pictures of this set. I cut out the light opening through the glass on the LE at the premarked area. Before, I had glassed the LE, I marked the start and stop points of the inboard limit of the opening. These were sharpie lines further aft on the strake top and bottom. Before you cut, make sure that your uncut lens extends past this border. After I cut this shape out with a dremel disk, I took out the blue foam to expose the lights. I smoothed up the edges and at this point I took out the lights to be sure that the cutout was shaped for that also, and then took the 3 ply template and laid it over this opening and traced the shape onto the template. I cut the template out and then trimmed it until it fit into the opening. I took that cut template and laid it over the outside of the shaped lens cover and traced the outline onto it. I used my dremel disk and cut out the lens. The last picture shows the lens cover in place before the lip support is placed.

In the first picture, you see the green piece of scrap cap strip from the strake work. I taped the lens. I put some micro on the green strip and used masking tape to hold it in place inside the enclosures, and then placed the lens in place flush to the strake. I used masking tape over the outside of the lens onto the strake to keep it from "falling in".

Next, I glassed the interior with some BID strips overlapping the inner side of the "retention lips".

The next picture shows the lens taped back on. I put some ficro on the "green lip" on one side and placed the taped lens back in place and let cure. I took off the lens, trimmed the excess and then repeated for the opposite side. If you do both at one time, then you might get the lens stuck with an overlap situation. This is a necessary step to close any gaps between the "lips" and the lens cover. If you have a gap and you screw down the lens, then it will flex and crack! No, I did not do that (yet).

To get the lens attached to the lips, I first marked three spots on the upper lip and three spots on the lower lip. I laid the lens edge on the shop bench edge and drilled holes for 8-32 screws and used a dremel metal crosscut bur to bevel the holes. I placed the lens back on and slowly drilled through these holes to make the same size hole through the "lips". In this picture you see 8-32 Tee nuts with the prongs going towards the lip. I did the other side reversed and they were more low profile. In the picture, you see that the screws are holding the Tee nuts in place. I placed some ortho wax on the open end of the Tee nut and placed a small amount of ficro around it to bond it to the surrounding glass. The last picture shows the final product. I spray painted the interior with some silver metallic for light reflection.
I drilled two holes through the centerspar where OD joins to it and ran pull strings for the wiring section. These holes are made through the access door where the light support was placed through.

Fresh Air Scoops

Here are three reasons to make your own scoops. The strength of the strake is not effected. due to the 100% glass to glass makeup. There is very little cost. Last of all , they look nice on the plane. You really need to plan to do this when the fuselage is flipped over and before the final micro surface finishing (aka "big fill").

I did the extensions to carry golf clubs, but it turned out great for the pilot and copilot fresh air intake points and into the cabin exit points. See later pics. As for the first picture, you need to cut this hole offset towards the fuselage like this. There will still be room outboard of the ducting for the end of the golf driver.

I made a plastic template that was a rounded triangle shape of seven inches by 3.5 inches. I used this template for the fore and aft and left and right (flipped).

I used the dremel disk again to cut through the skin and carefully peeled off the glass. If you don't gouge the blue foam, then you have the "roof" of the scoop ready to form and shape in the blue foam. I used one wide piece of stiff yellow foam to contour the duct through the blue foam to the previously cut hole in the strake extension support.

The aft fresh air scoop area does not have any foam "below" (floor of baggage compartment), so I drilled the three corners and inserted three finishing nails. I put some micro on the blue foam piece and went inside the upside down fuselage and blocked it up into place. You can position the aft end of the foam to be one inch forward of the beginning of the rear baggage access, so that the outlet will not get in the way for access to that space. I brushed on some epoxy to the blue foam to stiffen it prior to glassing and that worked well.

I used masking tape strips to extend the duct sides where necessary and did the following.

I wet out some BID on plastic and cut two inch strips. With the plastic backing in place, I curved the strip of BID and slid the piece down the duct, touched it to the micro and then carefully peeled off the plastic. Do the "lower" side of the duct, wedge in a foam scrap and cure, and then do the "top" side and place a foam scrap to hold it up in place. Next, I taped over the aft scoop opening and placed a 4 ply BID layup. The rear fresh air scoop will be covered, when there are no rear passengers and/or winter flights. The cover is shown next with the three circles, being the future places for the screws that will run down to the flushed out Tee nuts on the scoop "roof". I stored away this cover and taped the scoop over with duct tape (1/4th inch overlap) for the micro fill of the bottom of the strake.

The first pic shows the expansion of the forward access opening. The fuselage is still upside down and blocked up. I sat a a short step stool and easily did this work. As always "glass down".
Here are the two foam pieces for the duct with a couple of finishing nails to hold together. Where the duct ends, is where the "Whisper flow" vent is going to be installed. I took the foam out between the two glassed surfaces at the "top" middle area of the border of the opening and set the lip of the vent into that space. The next pic shows the ducting foam ready for glassing.
I trimmed off two of the corners on the vent and carved out a depression in some blue foam and then started carving the outside down to this shape. There is a gap between the shape of the duct and this shape that I bridged with a little masking tape for the glass over. I glassed the duct and the vent piece and sanded off the excess blue foam. I trial fitted it all first and then glassed in this order. I glassed the "roof" of the extension first, and the "C" shaped support and the TLE interior angles. Then glassed in the ducting with BID strips. Cure. Then I added the vent ( masking tape over the rotating ball part!) and vent enclosure in place and tacked it down with a little micro and let cure. Then I glassed the vent enclosure to the ducting. Later, I added a little micro around the gap of the enclosure to the vent, being careful not to overlap the taped part. The end product gives a large adjustable flow of air directed at your chest and not your hand.
Last of all I glassed the rim of the access on the "top" and sides. I will do the other side, after I flip the fuselage over and before I add the forward section of the canopy. Note: tape the canopy hinges over. I almost got some epoxy on the hinges, before I did that.

Fuel Sight Gauges

I want to have backups for important things like fuel levels.
Pic#1: After doing the canopy, I did the plexiglass the same way for this.
Pic#2: I floxed in the rear of the white plastic piece and covered it with masking tape to hold in place and then braced the clear cover against it to maintain the perfect matching fit. After cure, I drilled out the top and bottom input points. The plans show the bonding of the clear plexi to the base first. I worried that the backside of the holes would get flox in them and mess up the gauge.
Pic#3: The gauge is ready for the BID and flox around the sides and then some new Zolatone. I used some Crisco to hold the red ball in place. I used 4 min epoxy to bond the clear plexi to the white plexi. Don't overdo the amount of glue. The rundown of glue almost covered the bottom input point.